potage singhalese (chicken and curry soup) by Nate Everett

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I adapted this recipe from my treasured copy of the [now OOP] Cordon Bleu Cook Book by Dione Lucas. My dad gifted the cookbook to me a couple of years ago. I knew immediately that it was right up my alley: on the cover, under the author's name, an excerpt boldly states "the finest French recipes from the internationally famous Cordon Bleu restaurants and schools, adapted for American home cooking." I love it!

This potage singhalese is the crown jewel of Lucas' soup chapter. It is one of the best soups I have ever had. It's rich, creamy, spicy and vaugely sweet, and the South Asian and French flavors compliment each other nicely. The potage can be served hot or in small bowls encircled with ice. 

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The recipe calls for a small apple. If you're using a granny smith, which tends to be less sweet and less juicy than most other apples, you'll want to add the optional 1/4 teaspoon of brown sugar to the potage. On the other hand, if using a sweeter apple like a pink lady, you'll probably want to omit the sugar. 

Most of our spice cabinets, including mine, are stocked with a generic curry powder that caters to Western pallets, like McCormick or Badia. Both brands make a decent product and are good starting points for building flavor. But, in the final stage, you'll likely want to add another 1/2 or more of the curry along with a pinch of the various spices in the recipe to really bring out the depth of flavor that makes this potage so delicious.

When building flavor, and especially when working with hot spices, remember that you can always add but you can't take away. As such, I do suggest adding the cayenne and pepper flakes in small increments. If you're using a medium or hot curry power like the UK-produced Sharwoods madras curry, then you'll definitely want to omit the cayenne and pepper flakes. Unless you're a heat junkie. In which case I say go for it.

Ok. Let's do this. I hope you enjoy this potage as much as I do!

recipe

  • 3 tbsp "European-style" butter 
  • 1 medium-sized yellow onion, finely chopped
  • 2 tsp yellow curry powder
  • 4 tbsp flour
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1/2 cup fresh pea puree
  • 3 cups chicken stock 
  • 1 small cube chicken demi glace
  • 1 1/2 cups heavy cream
  • 1 pinch crushed cardamom seeds
  • 1 pinch cumin
  • 1 pinch turmeric
  • 1 pinch paprika
  • 6 ounces poached chicken breast, diced
  • 1/4 tsp brown sugar (optional)
  • 1 pinch cayenne pepper (optional)
  • 1 pinch red pepper flakes (optional)
  • 1 tsp Kosher salt
  1. Melt the butter in a Dutch oven or heavy-bottom saucepan. Add the sliced onion and apple and cook over medium low heat until they become soft, about 5-6 minutes. Do not allow the ingredients to brown.
  2. Reduce the heat to medium low and add the curry power. Gently stir to evenly coat the onion and apple with the powder and continue cooking on low heat for another five minutes.
  3. Add the pea puree, the flour, salt, spices, red pepper flakes and cayenne pepper. Gently stir once more to evenly distribute the ingredients over the onion and apple.
  4. Stir in the chicken stock and demi glace. Add the bay leaf. Continue stirring for a minute, then bring the mixture to a boil over high heat. Remove the mixture from heat once it starts boiling.
  5. Set a food mill over a medium-sized bowl. If you're going to serve the potage cold, then place the medium bowl in a larger ice-filled mixing bowl. Run the ingredients through the mill until you've extracted all the juices.
  6. Stir in the heavy cream, then add the diced chicken meat. Season to taste with salt and more of the spices.

If you make this recipe, hashtag a pic to #spiceandhutch and post to Instagram, Facebook and/or Twitter. I'd love to see your culinary creations!

moules marinières by Nate Everett

Classic French (or Belgian, depending on who you ask) steamed mussels are one of my favorite go-to dishes for a dinner party. They are rich with flavor, packed with protein, and remarkably inexpensive and easy to make. For the best results, remember that freshness is critical here: contact your local fish monger to find out which day of the week (and time of day) they have their mussels delivered and pick up your bounty as soon as you can. One pound of mussels per guest will do. Serve with a baguette or rustic sourdough bread to sop up those delicious juices at the bottom of your bowl.

Bon appetit!

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recipe

  • 3 pounds fresh mussels
  • 1/2 cup minced shallots
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 3 cloves thinly-sliced garlic
  • 3 tbsp unsalted butter
  • 1 cup dry white wine
  • 1/4 cup warm heavy cream
  • 1/4 cup chopped parsley leaves
  • 1 tbsp lemon juice
  • Kosher salt and ground black pepper 
  • 1 baguette 
  1. Prep the ingredients. Have everything chopped, minced, measured and ready to go.
  2. Place the mussels in an ice-filled bowl to the left of the sink and put an empty colander in the sink. Handling one at a time, debeard the mussels and scrub them under cold running water to remove mud and other debris and place them in the colander as you go. Discard any dead mussels. The deceased ones are easy to spot - any mussels that gape open and remain open for more than a minute after you flick the shell with your fingernail should be tossed. 
  3. Melt the butter in a Dutch oven or large saucepan. Add the shallots and cook over medium heat for several minutes until translucent, then add the garlic and cook for a minute longer.
  4. Empty the strained mussels into the pot and immediately pour over the white wine, and add the parsley leaves, bay leaf, lemon juice, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover and cook on medium heat until the mussels have opened up, about 6-8 minutes (this step is kind of like making stovetop popcorn; gently shake the pot back and forth several times while the mussels are cooking).
  5. Remove from heat and add the heavy cream. 
  6. To serve, pile the mussels into individual serving bowls. Tilt the pot towards you and, using a large spoon, skim the cooking liquid, onions, shallots and garlic from the pot and spoon it over the mussels. Continue until there are about two tablespoons of liquid left in the pan; discard this bit of liquid as it will contain residual sand. Garnish the mussels with fresh parsley and serve immediately.

If you make this recipe, hashtag a pic to #spiceandhutch and post to Instagram, Facebook and/or Twitter. I'd love to see your culinary creations!

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